Bouillabaisse

Please enjoy this recipe from the Clearly Delicious archives – New England-style Bouillabaisse from Christmas 2010. This year, I had hoped to spend my Christmas in Maine and see my family and friends after two long years of being away.  Living in south Louisiana and working on my degrees (and book, and blog, and photography) has really given me a lot of work and very little play.  Due to a series of events and Eve’s not-so-fabulous Christmastime sickness, I’m staying home to drink cocoa with Eve and sleep in late this year.  Normally, missing a trip home would have me terribly cranky, but I’ll be on the East coast for the summer, and think I can wait just a few more months to see my favorite people. 

Until then, Merry Christmas to Lise and Paul Duda (and their lovely children Caroline and Peter).  I wish we could be making Bouillabaisse again this year! Let’s save up our appetites for this soup when I come to visit in May.

Merry Christmas,

-Helana

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“So what are you gonna make me?!” Paul said with his normal jovial stare.

I knew I had gone too far by saying I was going to give the family the “Clearly Delicious treatment.”

I had been visiting with the Duda family for two days in South Thomaston, Maine, and hadn’t even flexed any of my cooking prowess despite the endless supply of my e-mail recipes that clog the Dudas inbox.

Imagine with me a fabulous couple that have a wonderful sense of humor, get along great, and always make you feel right at home (even if “right at home” means sharing a bunk bed with their daughter).  You’ve known them for 18 years (since you were 7) and they’re more like family than family friends.  Clearly, you want to make them dinner.

Spending close to two hours thumbing through a variety of cookbooks, Paul and I went back-and-forth on recipes that every family member might enjoy.

In traditional ADD fashion, we jumped from Monet’s Table to Fannie Farmer to The New York Times in search of the perfect–but seemingly easy–culinary treat.  Then, we stumbled upon Bouillabaisse.  Scared I would have to make a dinner using chicken bones and other Depression-era concoctions, Paul came to the decision that yes, Bouillabaisse was the dish we would be making with fresh Maine seafood and no, he would not do any of the cooking.

Well, that’s what he thought…or at least until I needed help steaming mussels.

I can explain Bouillabaisse by giving an overview of its history.  Bouillabaisse occupies a rich culinary tradition in France with a variety of opinions over how it can be made.  Many French cooks argue that a proper Bouillabaisse needs to have anywhere from five to seven different kinds of fish (not including shellfish).  Whereas others argue that a Bouillabaisse can only be made if you live in the Marsailles region of France (from Nice to Menton) where they have an abundance of “ugly fish.”

Having no ugly French fish on hand, I made–with Paul’s dry humor and the Dudas giving wallet–a Bouillabaisse rich in New England/Maine seafood.  Fresh Shrimp, Maine Mussels, Scallops, and Cod simmered in a broth of roasted tomatoes, white wine, and clam juice.  Cooked until warm, bubbly and melted together with saffron, thyme, and fennel, this seafood soup is loaded with rich, flavorful seafood and depth.

For a Clearly Delicious treat for family–blood or otherwise–try this fast and robust French Bouillabaisse Soup.

Bouillabaisse

Yield: 6-8 servings

Calories: 352.1 (see here for full nutritional information)

Prep Time: 5 to 10 minutes

Cook Time: 35 minutes

This recipe comes from the New York Times cookbook page 265 (Harper 1961).  My recipe follows the original closely with some changes to spice content and the depth of the broth.

Ingredients:

* 1/4 cup olive oil

* 1 medium onion, chopped

* 1 stalk celery, chopped

* 1 leek, diced (removing woody ends)

* 1 teaspoon ground thyme

* 2 bay leaves

* 3-5 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

* 2 cups crushed tomatoes

* 1 cup bottled clam juice (can use 2 and should have a second one on reserve if broth looks too thick)

* 1 cup dry white wine (can add more for broth purposes)

* Pinch of saffron

* 1/4 cup fennel, chopped or 1/2 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds

* salt & Pepper to Taste

* 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

* 1 small lobster, cut into pieces (optional)

* 12 mussels, well scrubbed and de-bearded (can use more if not using lobster)

* 12 raw shrimp, shelled and deveined

* 1 pound white fish (i.e., cod or haddock)

* 12 scallops

1.) Prepare ingredients: chop parsley, onion, celery, and peel garlic for pressing or mincing.

2.) In a large kettle heat the oil and add onion, celery, leek, thyme, bay leaf, and garlic.  Cook down for 5-10 minutes or until vegetables are tender, but still crisp.

3.) Add tomatoes, clam juice, wine, salt, pepper, saffron, fennel, and parsley.  Simmer for 15 minutes (if broth reduces too much, add second bottle of clam juice).

4.) Now, add seafood in the order of cooking length: first add mussels and cover broth with a lid.  Allow to cook for 3-5 minutes, or until mussel shells have opened from steaming.  Now, add shrimp and fish.  Simmer for 3-5 more minutes and add scallops.  Cook for 3 more minutes on a simmer.  Serve with crusty bread and enjoy! Makes 6-8 servings.

–Helana Brigman

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